Perched on a rocky hill overlooking the River Tigris, Mardin has had a position of strategic importance for centuries. The old city, with its mighty citadel, is a UNESCO site. This has helped it become known as a travel destination, and it welcomes more visitors each year, drawn by its winding, narrow streets, stunning architecture and sweeping views over the endless Mesopotamian plains.
A trip to Mardin should include a visit to the Kasimiye Medrese. This 16th-century Islamic school is a popular location for weddings, so don't be surprised if you spot a happy couple posing for photos! The building is an excellent example of Ottoman architecture and stands at the bottom of a hill just outside town. Renting a car in Mardin is an easy way to get there and back, avoiding the need to trek uphill on your return.
One of the most sacred sites in Mardin is the Ulu Camii, an impressive 12th-century mosque with a spectacular minaret. As you visit, you can admire the many inscriptions on the exterior walls, the marks of different civilizations that have controlled Mardin. Inside, it holds an unusual relic: a piece of the Prophet Abraham's beard housed in a special glass case. This is a working mosque, so non-Muslims cannot enter during prayer sessions. Shorts and bare shoulders are not permitted, and women should cover their hair.
Turkey is a predominantly Muslim country, which makes Mardin's Christian churches quite remarkable. This city has long been a cultural melting pot. Different ethnic and religious groups have peacefully co-existed here for centuries. One of the most interesting Christian buildings is the Deyrulzafaran Monastery. It is about a 20-minute drive from the city, easily reached with a rental car or van in Mardin. One of the main centers of the Assyrian Orthodox church, it was originally an ancient pagan temple. In the 5th century, it became a Christian monastery. It remains a working church today, with services on Sundays.
While in Mardin, it's also nice to just wander around the old city. Its bazaar is built literally into the city walls, with shops that open up into the stone fortifications. If you want to buy something in the bazaar, don't be afraid to negotiate. Confident hagglers will usually find a much better price! Watch out for the donkeys that wander the narrow alleyways, used as a way to collect litter.
For an evocative glimpse into long-gone eras, take a trip to Dara Mesopotamia. This 6th-century Byzantine ruin is all that remains of a once-mighty city. Dara was one of the most populated settlements in Mesopotamia, a heavily fortified outpost that saw frequent conflicts with the Persians. While it is in ruins today, it is a fascinating site. The rock-cut architecture is very unusual, reminiscent of Petra in Jordan.