Leiria is a university town with all the buzz and nightlife you'd expect. Visit in the summer months, and you'll find a quiet ghost town, while the rest of the year, it has a cool, youthful vibe. Whenever you visit, Leiria's beautiful monuments and intriguing history are waiting for you. In summer, it makes a good base for exploring the nearby Atlantic coast with its refreshing beaches.
High on a hill overlooking the town, Leiria Castle makes a great starting point for would-be explorers. This castle has been renovated several times over the years, marking different phases in its history. It was first built during the Reconquista, intended to strengthen the Portuguese defenses against the Moors. Years later, it was transformed into a grand royal palace, a getaway for the Portuguese monarchs when they wanted a change of scenery. Today, it houses several of the city's most fascinating museums, including the Film Museum, which was built to mark a century of movies in Portugal.
Leiria Castle survived the devastating 1755 earthquake that destroyed most of Lisbon. So did the city's cathedral, but it suffered extensive damage. For this reason, as you look at the cathedral today, it has an unusual number of buttresses and supports. They were put there to defend against any future natural disasters. As a result, the resilient cathedral does not have the graceful look that you might expect from such a large religious building. However, inside you'll find plenty of exquisite art, including a dazzling altar built in the Baroque style.
Another old building to see with a rental car or van in Leiria is the Moinho do Papel, a 1411 paper mill. This was Portugal's first recorded paper mill. Remarkably, the restored mill is still in use today. Watching paper being made may not sound that interesting, but it's actually a fascinating process. You can watch recycled pulp, mulch and old fabric being churned together by the powerful waters of the River Lis, eventually emerging as crisp sheets of paper. It's a surprisingly exciting way to spend your morning and a great way to inspire kids to learn more about science and engineering.
Renting a car in Leiria lets you visit one of Portugal's UNESCO World Heritage Sites, just 15 minutes from downtown. The Monastery of Batalha was built in 1385 and is truly spectacular. It's easy to spend a full day here, admiring every corner of this elaborately designed monastery. Whatever you do, don't miss the Founders' Chapel. This is where King John I, one of Portugal's greatest kings, is buried. His son Henry the Navigator, the explorer who first led the Portuguese on voyages of discovery, also lies here.